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Higher Dreams: May 2010
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Life revealed from steep and high places. Monday, May 3, 2010. The past few weeks have been very busy. I've been working almost every day and have had little time to venture into the mountains. Still, we have been preparing for our trip and are hoping to leave this Wednesday. It's down the to final hour! It was quite impressive to see this video of some Brits making a daunting first ascent. It was very inspiring and I'm already scoping an almost certain virgin line up Spenard Avenue.
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Higher Dreams: April 2009
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Life revealed from steep and high places. Tuesday, April 14, 2009. An Eklutna Canyon Mixed Nasty. For quick access to some great ice climbs, there's no place better than Eklutna Canyon. While most of the climbs are typically mellow in nature (WI3-4), there are lots of options to explore and the setting is beautiful. Lately we've learned that there is lots of potential for dry and mixed lines on the steep walls of the canyon. Ags looks normal but I look all fat. Damn Matt's weird lenses! Spring time in Al...
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Higher Dreams: Self-Visualization
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Life revealed from steep and high places. Monday, April 5, 2010. In preparation for our upcoming trip to the Revelations this spring, I have been practicing the process of self-visualization. It has been very interesting to work out, repeat and refine this mental rehearsal process. Trying to read and understand an unknown mountain, route or path is in some ways an aspect of visualization but I think it falls more under the category of planning. Our upcoming expedition into the Revelations is stacked with...
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Higher Dreams: February 2009
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Life revealed from steep and high places. Tuesday, February 10, 2009. This season my focus has been to not only climb harder and faster, but to tick off as many climbs that I haven't done previously as possible. So far this season, I've ticked off. Dreams of a Brown Moose. One that I've always wanted to check out but requires a burly approach are the Hurdy Gurdy climbs. Richard was going out there with a few friends this weekend and invited me along. Richard is barely visible way down there. The point of...
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Higher Dreams: March 2009
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Life revealed from steep and high places. Sunday, March 15, 2009. The southwest ridge of Peak 11,300 has long been a desired route of mine. Several years ago two friends made a late winter ascent, climbing the route in six long days. We were slow, you can do it much faster for sure! When our pilot friend offered to fly us "anywhere we wanted to go" it was hard to resist. Seth and I quickly jumped on his offer and settled on a trip to the Ruth for some late winter exploits. Peak 11,300's SW Ridge. Despite...
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Higher Dreams: Revelations Climbing Video
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Life revealed from steep and high places. Tuesday, June 15, 2010. Insanely hot conditions were melting out the glacier (and the runway for the pilot) at an incredible rate. It no longer even froze at night. Tragically we were had to cut our trip short due to the disappearing runway, and we did not get to complete the route. I guess that means we get to go back next year. You may watch it in a larger format here: http:/ www.youtube.com/watch? Subscribe to: Post Comments (Atom). View my complete profile.
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Higher Dreams: June 2010
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Life revealed from steep and high places. Tuesday, June 15, 2010. Insanely hot conditions were melting out the glacier (and the runway for the pilot) at an incredible rate. It no longer even froze at night. Tragically we were had to cut our trip short due to the disappearing runway, and we did not get to complete the route. I guess that means we get to go back next year. You may watch it in a larger format here: http:/ www.youtube.com/watch? Tuesday, June 1, 2010. A beautiful pinnacle just above basecamp.
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Higher Dreams: Spring Ain't Far Away!
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Life revealed from steep and high places. Tuesday, March 2, 2010. Spring Ain't Far Away! Spring ain't far away. And that can mean only one thing.climbing in "The Range! The whole intense training aspect of climbing has always been something I've more or less taken lightly. A little weight lifting here, some mountain hiking there, throw in some overnight climbs, lots of ice climbing and pulling on plastic and that's about it. I start to see the importance of a higher level of intensity training. If I do t...
higherdreams.blogspot.com
Higher Dreams: December 2009
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Life revealed from steep and high places. Tuesday, December 1, 2009. Yosemite v2.0 - Red Rocks - Joshua Tree. Days are short. Nights are cold. Sarah Palin has a new book out. These are desperate times. Times not to be reveled in. Let us remember fonder days. Steep granite. The aroma of Manzanitas. Sarah Palin out of the headlines. Hanging out under the great Muir Tree. Keegan inching up the chimneys. DUDE, I dropped the nuts," Keegan said. Yeah, I know, I caught them," I yelled, cringed forward in pain.
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Higher Dreams: April 2010
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Life revealed from steep and high places. Sunday, April 11, 2010. Skiing the North Face of Pioneer. Pioneer Peak in late spring conditions. For years I have wanted to climb Pioneer Peak's North Face, which rises 6300' directly from the road. Not only is the approach.wait.cut that. There is no approach. Repeat: there is NO approach. Cross the road, start climbing.approach done. Did I mention that there is NO approach? It turns out Pioneer is loaded with much more snow than usual and it was in great skiing...
