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Mostly Red: Home Sweet Ger
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Thursday, January 10, 2008. Near BALGAI, MONGOLIA. Maintaining the appropriate body temperature during the night will take balance. I must weigh the heat of the fire against the icy winds of the steppe outside. It's four hours after dark and already Bobby's pocket thermometer reads -20 on a quick trip outside. Getting through the night, like everything else out here in the Mongolian countryside, requires careful planning. A fatty mutton dumpling, and airag. By 9 pm the bottle is put away, Battir goes off...
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Mostly Red: Two Plates of Dumplings
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Sunday, December 30, 2007. Two Plates of Dumplings. 8212; At a dinner party, when a new acquaintance discovers I live in China, they usually smile and rack their brain for the easiest line of inquiry. Inevitably, "How is the food there? Comes out. Then, to show that they've been to college and know a bit about the world, this caveat is tagged on: "Of course, the food is nothing like the Chinese food we have here.". I'd like to see a Chinese menu," I said, in Chinese. The waitress did a strange thing: not...
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Mostly Red: The Wild, Wild West
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Thursday, January 31, 2008. The Wild, Wild West. 8211; Hollywood scared the shit out of the Soviet censors. Very, very few films were allowed to pass the Iron Curtain, and nothing in John Wayne's canon was on that list. The quintessentially American westerns – "High Noon" and "The Quick and The Dead" – never screened in Warsaw or Moscow. Instead the proletariat a revisionist take on the genre: the Red Western. Bobby is apparently not desperate to get back to Ulaanbaatar. Three hours into our trip, si...
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Mostly Red: Chomp, Chomp, Chomp
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Wednesday, December 19, 2007. Chomp, Chomp, Chomp. 8212; I'm lying on my bunk, attempting an afternoon snooze, when Olga calls my name. Jon Jon," she says. "Food.". I fumble around for my glasses and then take a look at our compartment's small table below me. Spread across the surface is a feast: big hunks of light yellow cheese, two loaves of dark bread and piles of hard candy. Constantly troll the cars selling fruit and noodles. The trains in Poland didn't even have water, let alone any food to sell.
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Mostly Red: Deep Throat
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Friday, January 25, 2008. Bobby is my guide on this five day tour through Mongolia's outer aimags. But since neither my companions nor I are paying her any money for the privilege, we are careful not to make arcane requests. I have not demanded a chance to sample the local delicacy of boodog. But I didn't even need to ask Bobby about my greatest Mongol desire: She brought the throat singer to me. And pickled vegetables. The Mongolians we encountered (continued to) confounded my western ideas of livin...
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Mostly Red: December 2010
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Saturday, December 04, 2010. The Continuing Adventures of. 8211; I've continued to blog at my food and adventures in eating site www.subineats.com. Follow my failures, triumphs and tales of indigestion there. Subscribe to: Posts (Atom). The Continuing Adventures of. Where Am I Now? The Best of 2007. The Best of 2006 (Coming Soon). Back of the Pack. Cherney in Myrtle Beach. The ends of the earth. Mostly Red on Mostly Red. Love and love making. The Black Book of Communism. The Chinese Are Smarter Than You.
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Mostly Red: Stinky Pile of Poo
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Friday, January 11, 2008. Stinky Pile of Poo. The following post contains some frank discussion of human bodily functions. If offended, please don't continue — but keep in mind Everyone Poops. There is a place where we can have lunch. It may not be open. Should we stop? Traditional Mongolian dishes were served, or more to the point, a traditional Mongolian dish. The rumbling on the set caused a rumbling in my bowels. This was a bit unusual, as I believe my intestinal track has a sixth sense and intui...
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Mostly Red: January 2008
http://mostly-red.blogspot.com/2008_01_01_archive.html
Thursday, January 31, 2008. The Wild, Wild West. 8211; Hollywood scared the shit out of the Soviet censors. Very, very few films were allowed to pass the Iron Curtain, and nothing in John Wayne's canon was on that list. The quintessentially American westerns – "High Noon" and "The Quick and The Dead" – never screened in Warsaw or Moscow. Instead the proletariat a revisionist take on the genre: the Red Western. Bobby is apparently not desperate to get back to Ulaanbaatar. Three hours into our trip, si...
mostly-red.blogspot.com
Mostly Red: A Hollow Shrine
http://mostly-red.blogspot.com/2008/02/hollow-shrine.html
Wednesday, January 30, 2008. 8211; A stumpa. Is the oldest and arguably the most reverential symbol of Buddhism. Long before statues of the effeminate, elbow-less prophet dotted Asia's temples, devout followers of the Buddha built stumpas. Cylindrical shrines that come to a point like a Hershey's Kiss. They are painted ochre and gold, the colors of a bright sky. The stumpa. Is an expression of enlightenment at the end of the FIVE FOLD PATH – Buddha's gift to the world. Khan relied on his cunning wit, mas...
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Mostly Red: A Day at the Races
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Monday, January 21, 2008. A Day at the Races. 8211; How do you set your watch to Mongolian Time? If you are familiar with the temporal concept known variously as "French Time," "Black People Time," "Island Time" and "College Freshman Time," your watch will need no adjustment. Mongolians, too, are constantly late. So when Bobby informed us last night that we would attend the Tsetserleg New Year's Horse Race at 8 am the next morning, we probably should not have set our alarms for seven. Bobby finally appea...
